Bars in Nebraska shouldn’t bother with names, whether clever or fancy or just plain “Bob’s Bar and Grill” American. Signs and logos cost money, after all.

Nope, they should just write “Keno” above the door and everyone would get the idea.

Non-natives might not notice that the in-plain-sight cash register located up front at Silver Dollar Bar & Grill only serves customers of the ubiquitous bar game. About half a block down the narrow but spacious room, there’s another one--tucked back behind the counter--for those who choose to eat or drink before Keno.

The burger and sandwich menu seems about right for the genre, too.

But if you expect afterthought-style bar food, you’re in for a surprise. Silver Dollar’s prime rib sandwich, for example, drapes a long, thin sheath of beef over toasted white bread. The setting allows the meat to stand out: rich with cushy fat, scored by flavors from the residue of burgers, onions and oil burned into the grill’s surface. Even though they tend to overcook the cut, it remains tender. And experience is one of husky beef, mellow marbling and brash caramelization all at once.

It’s a basic yet impressive sandwich. The normally reticent cut even stands up to grilled onions.

In addition to the usual onion rings and fries on the side, they offer a basket of thinly sliced, deep fried potatoes. Not French fries, not potato chips, these ruffled in-betweener spuds are beautifully crisped and sprinkled with just enough spicy powder to make an impression. Just stay away from the side of “nacho sauce,” a semi-sweet, semi-tangy orangish goo that goes a long way toward destroying the restaurant’s good work.

Well, maybe if you’ve down enough Bud’s or are busy watching the Keno screen, you won’t notice the wreckage.

The place also grills up some rather respectable burgers. But the prime rib sandwich is worth the drive from Kimball. One afternoon at lunch, surrounded by the Cabela’s name tag crowd, I even wondered why, with a fry cook that accomplished, they emphasized Keno up front (and tempted us non-natives to stand by the gambling register waiting to pay our bills).

Guess it’s for profiling purposes.

Anyway, the prime rib may help Silver Dollar make a name for itself.