Once upon a time, Schlitz rated as one of the most popular beers in America. But once upon the same time, a band called The Archie’s scored a hit with “Sugar, Sugar.”

Fortunately the bubble gum rock icons have yet to hold a reunion tour. The beer that made Milwaukee famous, however, is back in its original recipe...or “formula,” to use their term (which somehow implies lab coats and the mysteries of high fructose corn syrup, although that’s just an image running through my head).

On the nose it seems fresh, airy and lemony crisp, with a pleasant wet grain undertone—a surprisingly refreshing aroma, I thought. One of my cats, however, sprinted from the glass in terror after gathering a whiff of the stuff.

The promising oasis quickly turns into a mirage when you take a sip. Schlitz is quick and simplistic, with slight breeze of bitterness—and little beyond. It washes away, leaving a light, indistinct, almost watery memory. Really, it’s hard to say there’s anything but that initial (and not very compelling) impression.

Mind you, I bought a six pack of bottles ordered into Sportsman’s Liquor, not flavor-molting aluminum cans. I think I tried Schlitz at its best.

This, then, is the beer that fueled the microbrew revolution. And I’m stuck with five more bottles.