Everybody knows The Steel Grill.

The Gering original is a destination restaurant for those craving an urban (in Panhandle terms) vibe and a soul-soothing slab of red meat. But to take the concept and set it down in dinky little Bridgeport…?

Well, it works. The restaurant’s second location, along Highway 385 at the northern edge of town, bears the same upscale, neutral tone touches and adheres to the same smart yet casual ambience you would expect from destination venues. As a result, it draws a steady crowd, even on weeknights.

Of course, atmosphere--including service--may not be the reason for the restaurant’s popularity. On one recent visit I had to teach the bartenders how to create that simple, yet somehow daunting, cocktail known as the martini. And the waitress failed to bring promised ramekins of home made tartar sauce for two of the table’s fish dishes.

But the entrees overshadowed any little irritant the servers could throw at us.

Their steak, served rare, literally oozed across the palate. Silky in texture and roughhewn in flavor thanks to a brittle char and deft seasoning, it is the equal of any of the region’s top ranked cuts. An Alfredo dish wore a luscious and rich sauce so creamy it defied the will of a hungry teenager. And they claim to serve highly sought after ribs.

It must be true--the kitchen is always out when I order.

One of the menu items I find rather daring is a pub-style platter of fish and chips. While the French fries are of the same mundane mold you find everywhere, the feature item--two long filets--were spot on.

The shells were dense, malty and crisp, without being greasy. The porcelain-white fish firm and flakey, with a slightly sweet character. Hints of salt and pepper provided just enough spark. A little tartar sauce would have added a stunning exclamation point--if only…

Then again, they promised the same non-existent tartar sauce for a baked fish, which might have been devastating to delicate flesh.

The Steel Grill’s kitchen is the reason it has long been a draw. Even their onion rings carry a confident swagger.

Of course, these were served without accoutrements. If only the restaurant’s service could catch up.

Oh, well--it may be difficult to find really good help, particularly when customers come in demanding something other than Bud Light or Jack and Coke.

No matter: there’s a reason The Steel Grill has enviable name recognition. Order a meal and you’ll know what that is.