Can a man drink something with the slogan “witness the chickness” emblazoned on the label? Sure—but should he?

Back in the ‘70s, breweries needed a series of clever advertisements (and a cast of male athletes) to introduce “light” beer to men. Judging by the six packs of lower calorie versions of Bud and Miller streaming out of local bottle shops, the strategy worked. Light beer is now somehow considered masculine.

This new, more effeminate beer from the Chick Brewing Company in Monroe, Wisconsin is apparently an attempt to soften the genre’s image. And it strikes me as an inoffensive product.

On the nose Chick Premium presents floral, weedy notes with a slight hint of orange zest. In appearance the 97 calorie brew seems effervescent but pale, almost watery. Unlike the better known lights, however, it carries a crisp, dry taste. There’s none of the characteristic sweetness found in St. Louis or Milwaukee brands.

Yet it is noticeably an American light beer: vapid, with traces of malt and citrus and a hollow, grain husk aftertaste.

In answer, then, I’d say yes. If you can stomach the Prada-esque label design and prefer a snappy dry beer, by all means. But I’m not secure enough to be seen with a bottle in hand.