Presumably the folks behind Penalty Box Pale Ale—Game On Brewery out of Glendale, Wisconsin—relish a certain skating sport.

Yeah, the name gives it away. But the character of this brew is drawn from the image hockey fans believe of their heavily padded, helmeted, protective-visored athletes: these guys who skate for three minute shifts under all that gear are really tough dudes.

So Penalty Box unleashes aromas with unrestrained zeal. An orange-juniper belt of hops pelts the senses. There’s no subtlety here, just an unabashed assault that continues once you take that first sip.

Ripping bitterness rushes your palate, supported in its attack by husky grain. There is a mellow undertone, as hoarse whispers of grass and orange peel elbow through the din before blending easily into the raspy, hoppy tone. Citrus peel becomes more noticeable deep into the finish—or the third period, if you will.

This is, therefore, an ale fitting of the hockey player image. It is bold and unrelenting. It eschews the reality of pads and shift changes (giving players plenty of rest) and even of subtle stick work in favor of penalty box brutality.

And it’s not for fans of the American-style light beer.