Agave nectar is--or at least was--the trendiest of urban ingredients. Bartenders began blending it into cocktails, chefs basted meats with it and hip little shops drizzled it over ice cream.

Breckenridge is based in the decidedly metro Denver area. So why not brew up a beer with the hot new syrup?

What they produced is an unfiltered wheat ale that pours cloudy and gives off an unique aroma. In part it resembles traditional wheat, with its prominent waft of lemon and musty hay, with a hint of spice.

The flavor profile rings almost hollow, though: a falsetto of citrus and balsa, supported by rumbling grain. When the base dissippates, the entire structure collapses into something earthy.

Again the wheat style expresses itself through lemon and hints of coriander. As for the agave twist, you find in the finish evidence of grass and something akin to tainted honey.

While the grassiness lingers, the rest wraps quickly, with an astringent snap.

So it ends up as an interesting summer beer--not as whispy and crisp as many wheats, yet still fresh and acidic.

Call it a middling beer. Breckenridge’s Agave Wheat is worthy of a backyard barbecue. It is unlikely to replace your favorite brew.