Rosenblum has perfected this house blend of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah over many seasons.

Where five years ago tasting notes for their Cuvee Zin might have included words like Tester’s model glue or Adidas, it now comes across as a pleasing--and very inexpensive--summertime table wine.

Leathery fruit, overripe forest berries, mushrooms and earth fill each breath as you wave the glass under your nose, reminded one of a stroll through damp woods.

Fruit explodes on the palate--ranging from raspberry to dried cherry--before easing away with a casual gait. The finish is akin to residue, in the most appealing possible meaning of the word: berries growing soft on a shelf and some tannic qualities...although these are surprisingly subtle for a Zinfandel.

It may need a little decanting for a full expression of aromas and flavors to emerge. But for around $10 a bottle, the profile is better than expected.

Rosenblum’s blend is non-vintage, allowing the winemakers to tweak flavors from year to year. Still, almost 90 percent of grapes used in the fermentation process are Zinfandel--mostly from the Lodi area. And, like I said, they seem to have found a groove.

Serve it with barbecued ribs or grilled chicken, but pick something else to pair with a heavy steak.