It’s not like anyone scanning labels ever thinks “Loire Valley? Mosel River? Napa? Hmm…how about a fine central Nebraska wine instead.”

But 5 Trails in Paxton consistently turns out well structured, competent and interesting non-vintage table wines from vineyards near the little town along I-80—and they have for about five years now.

Their Paisley Red is blended from Marechal Foch and Frontenac grapes and aged in oak, producing a leathery aroma softened by rose petals, overripe cherries and hewn wood.

The taste is luscious and texture velvety. Forest berries burst on the palate, underscored by hints of velour, smoke and sturdy oak. The flavors combine into a passionate shout and then virtually vanish, leaving modest tannins and traces of bitter rose in their wake.

Some might call it a fruit bomb, but there’s just enough depth to set it apart from many table wines. And the subdued finish makes it seem light and friendly.

Somehow the folks at 5 Trails managed to tame two acidic varietals and expand on the musky notes in the Marechal Foch hybrid, as well as the cherry and fruit so evident in the hardy Frontenac.

No, it’s not Napa or Willamette—it’s Nebraska. And 5 Trails’ Paisley Red reflects a casual, pleasant terroir.